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Z HB:
"How can a burr be sweet? Keep the question in mind for this review entry.
The Philos is delivered with the 200 burr, a burr with no prebreaking section, so similar to the SSP MP and the flat burr of the DRM hybrid. A closer look shows that it is fairly different from the SSP MP, since it has a less aggressive cut and a thinner fine grinding section at the outer diameter. It does seem virtually identical to the DRM flat burr.
Mazzer 200 burr
SSP MP burr
DRM Flat burr
The Philos can also be ordered with the 189.D burr. This is the burr in Mazzer's Mini-E and Drogheria grinders, but with an upgraded coating. It has a fairly traditional burr cut.
Mazzer 189.D burr
I blind tested both burrs against the Fuji 220 for brewing, and against the Niche Zero for espresso. I also tested them both ways against the Lagom P01, a 98mm grinder that costs about twice as much as the Philos. I used a range of roasts, from light brewing roasts from Passenger and Manhattan, my own light to medium roasts, and Italian espresso blends.
The 189.D burr is surprisingly competent across the board, making acceptable brews and espresso, comparable with the Niche and Fuji. However, it is not a neutral burr. It gets duller and more boring tasting with more acidic coffees, and sweeter and more interesting tasting with roastier coffees. So, while I didn't like it as much as my other grinders whenever the coffee had any acidity; it was sweeter and more detailed for the low or no acid Italian blends. This is true across the board from espressos to French press. If low acid and roast forward coffees are your style (i.e. dark roasts or low and slow medium roasts); this is your burr.
The 200 burrs are a whole different story. Dan's and my first reaction was "damn, these things are sweet." Whenever the coffee had any acidity at all, the 200 came out sweeter than the Fuji and Lagom for brewing, or the Niche and Lagom for espresso. The espresso mouthfeel was compatible with the sweetness, being more syrupy versus the Niche's creaminess. I haven't made direct comparisons with other grinders or burrs; but I think these are the sweetest burrs I've ever tried on any coffee that has any acidity.
In terms of taste detail, the 200s do a very good job. They are not as detailed as the 98mm Mizens in the P01, but they are close. They are also slightly but distinctly better than the Fuji and the Niche; although here the added sweetness may be acting as a thumb on the scale.
These quality assessment are based on several months of me blind cupping brews from different coffees. My own espresso testing was semi-blind, since the best dialled in shots poured a little differently from each grinder. However, I confirmed the espresso taste differences in a few blind tasting sessions with friends. I am confident that these descriptions are accurate.
So if you enjoy acidic coffees, either in light roasts, or in fast darker roasts with some retained acidity, the Philos with the 200 burrs is a world class, all round, single dose grinder, within a hair of the 98s at about a third to half the price. It is a price-quality standout.
Back to the opening question -- what makes a burr sweet? The 200 burr doesn't have an attached fairy that secretly adds sugar to the brew. Since the sweetness drops out in low acid coffees, what it seems to do is present the acidity in the coffee more sweetly. The 189 burrs seem to do the same thing with the roasty components. How this works physically, I do not know. But it has created a small revolution in burr design. The ideal burr would add sweetness to the presentation of both the roasty and acidic components; and thereby balance the flavors of every coffee it makes.
Jim Schulman"
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